Dan & Decarlo

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DANDAN | Milwaukee | Two guys named Dan who grew up eating ...

DanDan Sichuan And Taiwanese Cuisine

The flavors of southwestern China ignite with Rittenhouse style... The brainchild of esteemed restauranteurs, Catherina and Kevin Huang, DanDan is a chic Sichuan & Taiwanese restaurant and full-service bar.

DanDan serves up authentic dishes native to mainland China and Taiwan, coupled with refreshing cocktails, wine and beer.

DanDan creates dishes that accommodate for dietary preferences and thus will customize plates to suit vegetarian and gluten-free needs.

DanDan’s dishes are culturally-rich and overflowing with flavor.

The DanDan team has perfected the play between spicy and sweet to offer an unmatched lineup for your tastebuds.

DanDan | DanDan brings 'heat' and 'sweet' to Rittenhouse - Philly

Advertisment of Gallery: What's frustrating is that DanDan, in so many other ways, is a welcome dose of authentic Sichuan and Taiwanese flavors near Rittenhouse Square, with a sharp contemporary space, ambitious owners, and the potential to become an adventurous new favorite in a posh zip code that can always benefit from a little more earthy spice.

But as "DanDan" is literally spelled out in tall marquee lights that rise beside the staircase up to the lantern-lit glow and rustic bare-wood tables of the second-floor mezzanine dining room, that famous Sichuan noodle dish is where we must begin.

There was classic "numbing heat" of Sichuan spice in some solid appetizer standards glazed in chili oil, like the snappy mound of thin-sliced tripe and beef tongue, and the thick-skinned comfort of sesame-dusted dumplings and their more sheerly wrapped wonton counterparts.

But DanDan's finesse was most notable in some of the more soft-spoken dishes that speak to the Huangs' Taiwanese youth (even if Cat's paternal grandma always cooked Sichuan).

But there were no such problems with the spicy Sichuan beef noodle soup, whose tender chunks of stewed meat bobbed in rusty dark chili broth enriched with salty-sweet broad bean paste.

'Vegetable Forward' Chef Gets His Own Patch at Loring Place - The ...

That may be true of the recipes, but the template of the menu comes unmistakably from ABC Kitchen, all the way down to the whole-wheat pizzas.

But I have to admit I had a hard time keeping up my interest in the other pies at Loring Place once I’d eaten a square of what the menu calls “grandma-style pan pizza.”

I don’t imagine Mr. Kluger wants us to think of Loring Place as a place for cheeseburgers and square pizza, but a lot of the other main courses aren’t as compelling for one reason or another.

As much as I want to take Loring Place on its own terms, the menu makes comparisons with ABC Kitchen inevitable, and Loring Place comes off as slightly less interesting.

To be fair, very few restaurants are as interesting as ABC Kitchen was when it opened, and there are solid reasons that reservations at Loring Place are hard to come by.